TMB - Day 4 (Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur)

On our way down to Lac De Combal from Rifugio Elisabetta

After a sleepless night, we decided to just leave early so we can have more time in Courmayeur. From  the rifugio, we descended to Lac de Combal and it was a beautiful hike between two lakes with the magnificent view of Glacier du Miage to our left. 

From the lake, we then climbed for about 3000 feet for a magnificent hike high above Val Veni. Since we started early on the hiking season, we have encountered avalanches and some of the rivers were still dangerous to traverse because of the glacial melt. On this day, we had to cross a raging river where the freezing water was high enough that we had to remove our boots and fold our pants up so as not to get wet. It was scary but very exciting.

And just when I thought the view can never get better after yesterday's hike, we had an unobstructed view of the Mont Blanc Massif for miles as the weather was again amazing on our third day! 

After the easy and glorious hike, we then headed to Maison Vieille for lunch. We ate pizza and pasta (we were in Italy, after all) with our friends from the trail. We also met a Japanese guy who is an experienced hiker with amazing stories of his hike around the world. I went to grad school in Tokyo where I met my husband who also went to school there. We haven't been back since we left Tokyo six years ago so it was nice to speak Japanese again. We spent an hour chatting and eating which, unknowingly, was a great idea as  things started to go downhill literally and figuratively from here.

From Maison Vieille, the route to Courmayeur was steep and never ending. It was also the middle of the afternoon so it was hot and humid. With over 25 lbs on my back and the steep zigzags, I thought I was going to break my knee. Thankfully, I didn't, but a couple of people that we met in the trail got injured on this day so this was a really tough day! I cannot imagine enjoying this hike had we taken it in July or August. For those who plan to do it on those months, just take the chairlift and save your knees! 

It took us 8 hours to finish this part of the trek and we were tired, dusty and sweaty by the time we reached our destination. It was nice to stay in a hotel after camping on day 2 and staying in a crowded rifugio on day 3. We even had our clothes washed and folded for just 14 euros! We rested for about an hour, took a really hot bath and off we went to their "main street" for some gelati followed by the best Italian dinner you can find in the trail at Ristorante La Tirrazza, again with our friends from the trail.

Courmayeur

DAY 4 SUMMARY

Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur 

Distance: about 15.3 KM (9.5 miles)

Time: 8 hours (with rest stops)

Highest Elevation: 2420 m (~7940 feet)

Rating: Easy at first, "knee-breaking" towards the end

  

TMB - Day 3 (Les Contamines to Rifugio Elisabetta)

Picture taking before Col de la Seigne

I have read some blogs where hikers said Day 3 was tough. I think after our grueling hike the day before, this was a walk in the park. 

Tired from yesterday's hike, we woke up at around 9 AM only because inside our tent, it started feeling like a sauna. If not for the heat, we would've slept until noon. After packing our tent, we went back to Refuge de la Nova for another hot shower and had breakfast of their yummy omelette and cappuccino. At around 9:30 AM, it was only us in the Refuge so it was very quiet and very relaxing. I think it was around 10:30 by the time we left for Col de la Seigne. 

For me, the most challenging part of this hike was walking from Les Chapieux to Refuge des Mottets. The temperature was in the high 20's, we were walking along a tarmac and it was a cloudless sky! It was really really hot not to mention an excruciating 300 meter climb. The view got better and better though so it was worth every uphill climb.

On our way to Refuge des Mottets with views of Aiguille Des Glaciers

We also met many hikers who spent the night at Refuge de la Croix Du Bonhomme. They had to go down to Les Chapieux (where we camped), as the alternative route, via Col Des Fours, still had too much snow. Together with the other hikers, we had dessert and some cold drinks at Mottets before tackling the 750 meter climb to Col de la Seigne at 2516 meters. 

Another river that we had to traverse

We came from ALL THE WAY DOWN THERE!

Although I've been whining in the morning about the heat and the cloudless sky, I am thankful for it as we gained altitude. The temperature got better and better the closer we got to Col de la Seigne. Mother nature has been blessing us with great weather so far and the views were amazing as we reached the border between France and Italy.

Enjoying the view before crossing the border to Italy

Mont Blanc as our background

We do not know how to selfie...

A better picture but the wind was fierce!

Ater Col de la Seigne, off we went to Italy and it was an easy downhill hike to Rifugio Elisabetta. I have been looking forward to this stage of the TMB because I love Italian food but I have never tried the local cuisine of Aosta Valley. The beauty of doing these intense hikes is I can stuff myself with carbs (pasta, pizza, wine!) without feeling guilty.

The way to Rifugio Elisabetta

The only picture I have of the rifugio. Its location is actually nice and I wish I have taken a picture of it from afar.

View from the rifugio

We arrived at Rifugio Elisabetta at around 4:30 PM. After checking in, they showed us to our room that we shared with 16 people! It was unbelievable! I would've preferred to wild camp but I wanted to take a hot shower and I was looking forward to hot food so hubby and I decided to stay there. We paid 45 euros each for the bed, dinner and breakfast the next day. I e-mailed them (info@rifugioelisabetta.com) about three weeks before we left for the TMB and I got a confirmation right away. Even if the sleeping conditions were not desirable, we were able to meet fellow hikers who became our friends throughout the hike and the view was amazing from the rifugio. I guess it was worth the sleepless night. One of the hikers that we met was aware of this condition so she booked a bed and breakfast that is about 45 minutes away from Elisabetta. She had a great night's sleep!

   DAY 3 SUMMARY

Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta 

Distance: about 13.5 KM (8.5 miles)

Time: 6 hours (with rest stops)

Highest Elevation: 2516 m (~8255 feet)

Rating: Moderate